Encountering the Extreme

The lush mountains and wide rivers of Yeongwol, Gangwon-do Province, is just the place for the exhilarating outdoors. Rain or shine, those looking for a day out in nature can head to this haven for river rafting, paragliding and off-roading. The water is strong, violent, like the waves of a typhoon-hit sea. Heavy rains have disturbed the banks, churning the river as the momentum of each wave culminates in a thunderous crash. Uprooted trees dot the waters, dancing alongside brightly-colored rafts on the Donggang River in Yeongwol.

The key to a good rafting experience depends on the water’s flow, and stormy weather can change the river’s direction unexpectedly. Rather than downstream, a river can stop, turn and even flow backwards, sometimes causing rafts to capsize. Rafters look at each other in alarm, but nevertheless grip their paddles with determination, ready for the thrill of the ride. After all, it’s why they chose to come to Yeongwol: for the excitement of the outdoors.

EARTH AND WATER

The slick riverbed rocks are hidden beneath the moving waters while a wet fog overtakes Eorayeon Valley, which encloses the Donggang River. Known for its natural beauty, the valley typically boasts clear waters and schools of fish, making it one of the most popular spots in Gangwon-do Province. Despite the stormy weather, the valley welcomes brave rafters with an aura of mystique, like a traditional landscape from ancient Korea, with mountains on either side accentuated with rocks and pines.

It is only through the sister Donggang and Seogang rivers that people can truly appreciate the beauty of the surrounding land. The source of the 65km-long Donggang River can be found at Odaecheon Stream in PyeongChang, the city of the 2018 Winter Olympics, and flows onward to meet the Joyanggang River at Taebaeksan Mountain. The Donggang joins with the Seogang before concluding at the Namhangang River, and the area is well known for its extreme sports scene.

The rivers’ winding paths prove diverse in its offerings, and the terrain provides a space for a bit of everything – from off-road four-wheel drives to mountaintop paragliding. Renting a quad from a local company, tourists can discover the region through an exhilarating ride on nature’s bumpy roads and hilly paths. Paragliding can be enjoyed from the top of Bongnaesan Mountain, which overlooks the Donggang River. Jumping from a peak, paragliders are rewarded with a sight of fellow rafters, trekkers, off-roaders and picturesque panoramas.

Yeongwol also has an extensive network of limestone caves formed roughly 450 million years ago, with about 256 known caves. Spelunking is another experience many enjoy in Gangwon-do Province, discovering the underbelly of the land, one cave at a time. “Yeongwol offers unique leisure and sports activities that can be discovered right within nature itself. People can enjoy a wide array of experiences year-round,” says Hong Gil-rae of local rafting company.

PAST AND PRESENT

After a day of adrenaline-pumping intensity, wind down at the tranquil Byeolmaro Observatory. The main observation room sits at the top of Bongnaesan Mountain and houses the country’s largest reflecting telescope, which has a diameter of 80cm. Looking through the eyepiece of the massive piece of technology, Saturn and numerous stars can be seen in the sky. There are 11 small telescopes in the observatory that can be used to peer at constellation formations, as well as an astronomy gallery, an audio and visual materials room and more.

The observatory was placed in the spotlight in 2006, with the release of Radio Star. The movie, which was shot in Yeongwol, follows the story of a washed-up singer who ends up DJ-ing at a small town radio station. The hit film brought new stardom to Yeongwol, and several attractions and hole-in-the-wall cafes featured in the movie can still be visited today, such as the charming Cheongrok Coffee Shop.

From a historical perspective, Yeongwol is known for Cheongnyeongpo peninsula and Jangneung tomb. The former is the site of the young King Danjong’s banishment. The child king (1441-1457), who was crowned when he was 11 years old, was exiled to Cheongnyeongpo by his uncle King Sejo, who sought the throne for himself. Though not completely isolated, the landmass is surrounded on three sides by the river and blocked by a cliff face on its fourth – making it impossible for the young king to escape.

Though six of Danjong’s loyal subjects tried to return him to his rightful title, Sejo sentenced them all to death, including the 16-year-old Danjong. He was buried at Jangneung and every year since 1967, an eponymous festival called Danjongje is held in celebration of his memory.

Though Yeongwol has a turbulent history, the county today lures in tourists and locals alike with its river waters and mountain peaks. Whether you’re in search of a nighttime stroll or a thrill, Yeongwol has just the right balance.

-Article from KOREA Magazine August 2011

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